Tuesday, 18 December 2012

ANDALUSIA DETOUR NEWS AND BITS………

It would be fair to say that we didn´t expect very much and were not overly excited when we finally launched Andalusia Detours earlier this year. But we saw the potential……and boy is there ever such potential……. We didn´t under estimate….or perhaps we did a little…..the task ahead, how to convince the seasoned and well-travelled  motorhome visitor that there is so much more to Spain than the contrived, crowded and relatively expensive Costa´s.

Its mid-December and I have just returned from a semi business tour of a few campsites in Andalusia. Many of the sites along the coast are heaving; ok I understand fully the attraction of Christmas on the Costa offering like-minded companionship and the chance of much improved weather….although it would not be for me……but sitting in a bar on one site I was amazed to hear, time and again, that there was nowhere to go “inland” and no campsites.

OK, I will concede that there are few campsites but on my trip the ones I visited were all but empty. Motorhomes moan about the lack of inland campsites, even though they have not looked….and the point is that nobody is going to invest in rural sites while the existing ones are underused…..

Anyway, back to the point. We thought long and hard about “doing our own thing” in Andalusia as we had been approached and pushed by a major club to research, recce and run motorhome tours in the region exclusively on their behalf. A tempting offer but no thanks and no hard feelings….although who knows, we may well do a few dates for them in the future.

So, Andalusia Detours launched itself onto the motorhome touring market with an ambitious 8 tour dates scheduled for 2013. As I write 3 dates are already FULL. The style remains as with all “Detours” tours ….. Off the tourist trail and expect the unexpected.  

We are strictly limiting these tour groups to just 9 vehicles….but we will book 10 vehicles allowing for the inevitable cancellations.

The Andalusia tours will have no impact on our long established Moroccan tours i.e.            [www.desertdetours.com ] as we are recruiting additional staff and sourcing extra escort vehicles.  In fact a number of clients are joining both our Moroccan and Andalusia tour on a back-to-back basis, not a bad idea given the historical and cultural links…..but also the attractive discount offered!!!!!

If you are interested in one of these outstanding tours check the website and-or send for an itinerary.

And remember, book before 1st January 1013 and you will receive a FREE Wi-Fi Booster Antenna. …….. Thinking about it I must post a review on these great bits of kit.

MUCH MORE THAN JUST ROOTS………..…
This Blog is of course primarily about Andalusia Detours and Andalusia itself…….in fact it’s much more about Andalusia than us as a company. But perhaps I can take just a few lines to introduce you to our very own town-village….Alhaurin el Grande…..A locality well worth a visit in its own right, our transit base to Morocco for many years but now our permanent home and business location for the last 12 years.
I have but only one regret about leaving the UK to settle in Alhaurin el Grande…..It is in fact a long story and one I will not bore you with, suffice to say that Alhaurin was the location where we finally “drove the peg into the ground” and decided to stay after just two months on the road at the start of a World Road Trip……Yes, I said it was a long story. Where was I? Ah yes, just one regret. I regret that I didn´t move here 25 years ago!!!!
That´s not to say that I had a problem with living in the UK and jumped ship, far from it. Although the chilly and wet life in the UK was good and the business even better a career of endless travels meant that I never had the deeper feeling or contact with the UK that perhaps I should have had. Perhaps my originating from Saskatchewan, Canada had something to do with it. Who knows? But this piece is about Alhaurin, not me!! 
Alhaurin el Grande, from our office window.

Alhaurin el Grande is located on the north side of the spectacular Sierra de Mijas at a height of 326 meters above sea level [we are even higher] and enjoy a benign climate of mild winters and hot summers. Long and endless days of sunshine per year are the norm. We are just 29 km from Malaga and around 18 km from Marbella with Malaga Airport being just 18km away, all serviced by an excellent road network.
We, its inhabitants, are known as alhaurinos or laurinos. We are also lucky in having an indigenous and ancient population of Spanish Gypsies, known as Gitanos, who add a mostly colourful and cultural aspect to our town.  [The word "Gitano" comes from "Egipciano" that is the Spanish for "Egyptian". Like in the word” Gypsy", which come from "Egyptian", is due to a medieval belief that the Romani people came from Egypt].
With a population of around 25.000 Alhaurin el Grande is the thirteenth largest city in the entire province of Málaga, second only to the coastal municipalities, the cities of Ronda, Antequera and nearby Alhaurin de la Torre. There is a large presence of foreigners settled in the town, estimated to represent nearly 5% of the total population, with the minority of incomers being “Brits”. It also contains the neighbourhoods of Chorro or San. Anton, el Bajondillo, San Isidro, Camino de Coin, la Huerta, el Barrio del Alemán and la Fama…..Great names!
We are actually perched high above the town on Sierra La Mota overlooking Alhaurin with its Serria de Mijas backdrop. Our re-established finca occupies the ground of an ancient and bloody battle; with its associated “ghostly apparitions”….and there is another long story. Behind us rolls the stunning Natural Park of Sierra de las Nieves. We are indeed fortunate and never forget it!
In the town we can finds traces of ancient civilisations, abundant Roman and Moorish remains are clear with signs of an even earlier history marked by the evidence of Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and of course Arabs. Indeed it was the Moors who gave us our name, Alhaurín, meaning "Garden of Allah". Before then the Romans called us “Lauro Nova”. In the surrounding forests there are signs of Neolithic occupation, these traces were found at Las Huertas Altas and near La Casa Forestal.

A summer afternoon in Alhaurin
As with most everywhere else in Andalusia the earlier “golden age” became more than a little tarnished during the time of the Visigoths. Although the town was in no real danger of disappearing its development was exceedingly slow. It was not until the Moors took over and built a fortress on a hilltop called Torres de Fahala that it began to move again. The fort was partially wrecked in the destructive zeal of the Reconquista, but at least the village survived. In the following centuries the town suffered from invasions, epidemics of plague, and even an earthquake in 1680. During the Peninsular War of 1808-14 it was occupied for four years by French troops and suffered considerable bombardment.
As side note …… If you believe in fate and providence it is perhaps not altogether too strange that my aborted “World Road Trip” should have end at a location where I have so many interests and “emotional” connections.  My office overlooks the now restored Moors fortress.
If you are ever in the area call us and you may even get a pint or coffee! There is now a quite acceptable rural campsite,  www. Malagamontepark.com , just 5 km outside the town on the A404…….


JUST SOME ANDALUSIA BITS………


SO WHO ARE THE EX-PATS THEN………….

I was thinking, always dangerous and often pointless. I live in Spain…Andalusia…. And am considered an Ex-Pat…….By how and why I ask myself, ignoring the obvious?

In 711AD Spain was invaded by the Umayyid Moslems, or Moors, who overran the crumbling Visigothic kingdom of Roderick. The Moors originated in North Africa, i.e. Mauritania and Morocco but originally came from Arabia …..Ex-Pats…… and crossed the Straits of Gibraltar. OK, the bulk of their army was made up of the indigenous Berber stock.

In effect the Moors became ex-pats bringing their culture and customs with them.

Under the Emirate of Cordoba, the cities of southern Spain, Toledo, Cordoba, and Seville, speedily became centers of the new culture and were famed for their universities and architectural treasures like the Alhambra (made possible by the arch), luster glazing, delicate and lace-like wooden carvings, calligraphy, gold and silver smiting, the development of steel etc. etc. etc.

Not only were physical and ascetic changes introduced, but the Moors also introduced the social custom of chivalry, practiced across the Moslem world. Their impact was to last seven hundred years and was to have a significant part in leading medieval Europe out of the Dark Ages.

So, what have the modern day northern Europeans brought and contributed to Andalusia? Ehhhr, now let me think……. NOTHING!!!!!

At about the same time the Moors invaded Spain, the Vikings started raiding from Northern climes, which was to last for three hundred years. The Viking era culminated in the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, two weeks before the more famous Battle of Hastings. Less well known and acknowledged is where Vikings raided, Viking traders usually followed. Before my family launched off to the shores of the southern hemisphere's new world in the 1800’s, we can trace our roots back to the Dane law (or Danelagh) of North and East England and before that Denmark. It would seem that ex-pat living is in our blood.

In 1066 the Normans invaded England and won the throne implementing a Norman culture over a Viking-Anglo-Saxon culture. But where did the Normans come from?

In order to stop Viking raids in Northern France, the French King offered the Vikings tracts of land which have since become known as Normandy – home of the North or Norse men, in effect Viking ex-pats. It was these same North men, or Francophile-Vikings, that laid claim to the throne of England in 1066. In winning the throne of England a whole new range of Franco-Viking customs, laws and language was introduced to England. In order to supplant Anglo-Saxon culture with that of the Normans, the ruling class of Normandy almost decamped en masseto England effectively becoming ex-pats again.

And the rest, as they say, is history….But clearly I need to lie-down for a while, it must be something I ate   !!!!!


MANANA…………

This is absolutely true…so I am told.

Spanish singer Alejandro Sanz was on television with British TV host Anne Diamond when he used the word 'manana'. Diamond asked him to explain what it meant.

Alejandro said that the term means "maybe the job will be done tomorrow, maybe the next day, maybe the day after that. Or perhaps next week, next month, next year. Who cares?"

The host then turned to Irishman Shay Brennan who was also on the show and asked him if there was an equivalent term in Irish.

"No. In Ireland we don't have a word to describe that degree of urgency," replied Brennan.


I MUST REMEMBER, FLAMINGO IS A BIRD, FLAMENCO IS A DANCE……..



There are few things as emblematic of and as unique to Spain as flamenco. The distinct guitar, passionately sung songs, and the heart pounding, rapid and emotionally expressive dance amount to a national treasure of Spain. This style of dance began in Al-Andalus in the middle Ages when Muslim rule was in decline, but had existed for centuries. While the specific origins of flamenco are lost to history, it is clear that there are Arab influences, especially in the style performed in the Gypsy caves in Granada.

On a recent walk up to the gypsy caves in Sacromonte I got into a conversation with a local man, for unexplained reasons the conversation turned to flamenco. He explained to me that there was in fact a connection between the centuries of Muslim rule and flamenco and that many Spaniards were beginning to recognize it as well. This was of no surprising to me because I had always thought of flamenco as a sultry style of dance, although hardly a style associated with the stereotypical modesty required of Muslim women. I had always kept this in the back of my mind whenever watching a flamenco performance, although I am no real expert on the origins or style of dance, indeed any dance, I could definitely identify Muslim influences.

Intrigued enough that I returned to the Albaicin and did some research on the subject and found an article from Saudi Aramco World about the very connection that the man I met on the way to the gypsy caves was talking about. (A side note: Saudi Aramco World is a publication by one of the largest oil producers in the world, based in Saudi Arabia. The purpose of the magazine is to publicize the positive aspects and history of the Muslim world.) In the article titled “Exploring flamenco’s Arab roots” from the November/December 1994 issue it states “the Arab roots of flamenco run deep. Some scholars believe the word flamenco… is a corruption of the colloquial Arabic felag mangu, meaning “fugitive peasant” and derived from a root meaning “to flee.” The term came into use in the 14th century, and was first applied to the Andalusian Gypsies themselves, who were called either gitanos or flamencos.”

What I have found most interesting about this connection though is the fact that Spaniards are beginning to acknowledge and embrace their Arab roots as well. If they are willing to concede that one of their unique national treasures is derived from the period of Muslim rule, then perhaps they are open to the idea of re-connecting with people whom they share such a history with just across the Straits of Gibraltar. As it is many Americans inclination to resent the influx of immigrants from Latin America, it is also the inclination of many Spaniards to resent the influx of immigrants from the Muslim world. While I do not think for a second that the acknowledgment of flamenco’s roots will solve this resentment, it may just be one way to build a much-needed bridge between the cultures that share some common history.


A POEM…….
 Picaso...1906
I spotted this poem, not the picture, while looking for something else [Spanish Gypsy History] on the internet and liked it!
My Andalusian
Spanish Horse Boy
That Europe wants cast from places too wet and damp
that actual humans can't inhabit
I can teach you how to be more human
but your grass grains kept my Elders alive
and they covered for you when they ran into the night with their diamonds.

Your eyes are such dark pearls
Your mouth is as dark pink as a berry-freshly picked
Your face is gold shone blown from the air
My Andalusian
Horse Spanish Boy
My Pygmalion ways
would cause catastrophe: for you are pure art.
Yes, that I would live in your tree houses
Yes, that I would play guitar with one string
And learn all your dances
and leave my best dresses behind.

But Roma, Roma, Roma!
You have no home state, no country to make demands from
And they are not impressed with flamenco music
or the special way your women wash their hair with flowers.
Europe pretends to be strong against every gypsy who has broken horses.

I would walk down that road with you
I would walk right in the middle
to be with my Spanish Boy Horse
to show him we are all galaxies and roads are paved with pastness.
I would walk down that main road for you.
But you have no diamond for me.
Still, I would love you from afar
My Andalusian
Spanish Boy.

By Eli Spivakovsky


LET’S DO A PROVINCE…………

Now and then I may post a brief overview on one of the Andalusia provinces’. So, where should we start? Jaen is as good as any…….and it’s an area we feature in one of our tours.

 Even the olive groves look spectacular in Jaen

It is impossible to mention Jaen without in the same sentence mentioning olive oil. It is the largest single producer of olive oil in Spain and the world. After years of wholesale to other European countries for repackaging and rebranding, Jaén is finally now recognising and communicating the exceptional qualities of its fine olive oils.

Taken from the Arabic word meaning ‘crossroads of caravans’, Jaén was not always a sleepy, rural province in Spain; it was a strategic location for both the Romans and the Arabs. It is thought that the Romans introduced the olive trees to Spain and as a testament to the important role olives and their ‘liquid gold’ play in Andalusian culture, the typical scene of rows of green olive trees against the local white chalky soil is regarded as the inspiration for Andalucía’s flag.

Even before the immense contribution of olive oil, Jaén had a booming pottery and crafts industry which combined with geopolitical factors meant wealthy nobility invested heavily here.

The province boasts two of Spain’s most remarkable renaissance towns, Úbeda and Baeza. Thanks to the relative lack of economic development over the last half of the twentieth century, these two towns have remained almost untouched; a living museum of some of the finest palaces, churches and public buildings. Now these towns are a huge source of cultural tourism to the area, with visitors drawn by the unprecedented, preserved architecture, beautiful countryside and exceptional cuisine.
Jaen Cathedral

Úbeda was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003 and is centred on the imposing Vázquez de Molina Square, surrounded by ornate, golden sandstone buildings. This is a town to explore at a mellow pace, as at every turn there is a site to relish.

Neighbouring Baeza was also recognised by UNESCO is 2003. It is a smaller town, but no less impressive with many of Spain’s best examples of Italian Renaissance architecture. Elegant squares, intricate fountains and palatial homes define Baeza. The original university, now part of the University of Granada, and the cathedral are amongst the highlights of this exquisite town.

Both cater for the sophisticated traveller, with boutique hotels, upscale tapas bars and swanky restaurants. These are islands of culture amongst a sea of olive groves.

Jaén capital was bombed by the Nazis in 1937 and much of the modern development is without note but at the heart of the city is its Cathedral, probably one of the most important renaissance cathedrals in Europe. To enjoy the very best view of the city, climb to the top of the Santa Catalina hill in the town. At the very top is an ancient fortress dating back to the ninth century Moors. It is now a Parador Hotel and offers the most privileged vantage point from which to enjoy the city.

It is the province’s natural beauty though which probably leaves the most lasting memory. Jaén is lucky enough to have some of Spain’s most spectacular natural parks, including the exceptional ‘Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas’ Natural Park. This is Spain’s largest protected area, covering more than 200,000 hectares and is a testament to the unique biodiversity of Andalucía.

Eagles and vultures fly overhead, whilst the rivers and lakes teem with life; and the forests of pine and oak are a popular hunting ground for Iberian game. The scale and drama of Cazorla is immense, without comparison in Europe. The park is popular with those enjoying not only tranquillity and relaxation but also adventure sports and mountain activities, catered for by a range of boutique and rustic accommodation.

Like I said we feature parts of the Jaen province in one of our tours……all be it a more off-the-tourist trail.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT OVER TURKEY BITS………….



Left-over turkey, even dry, overcooked, scrappy bits are good in soups, salads, sandwiches, stews, smothered in sauce or topped with a poached or fried egg. But here is a local bar favourite alternative I enjoy…… I am not sure how “Andalusia” it is, but it’s were I had it so it is as far as I am concerned……Actually I think it is of Mexican origin…. But hey-hoe, it beats Curried Turkey hands down!

THE STUFF YOU NEED…….Of course you can improvise ……

  • 1 (15-ounce) can chopped tomatoes, drained
  • 1 small, firm white roll, toasted and torn into small pieces
  • 3 ounces Mexican chocolate (such as Ibarra), chopped
  • 1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds, toasted
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • About 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 16 dried mulato chilies, stemmed, seeded, and deveined (about 8 ounces)
  • 6 pasilla chilies, stemmed, seeded, and deveined (about 2 ounces)
  • 4 ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded, and deveined (about 3 ounces)
  • 1/2 cup whole almonds
  • 1/2 cup raisins
  • 1 small onion, roughly chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, sliced
  • 2 cups Quick Turkey Stock
  • 1 chipotle Chile (canned, from 1 can chipotle chilies in adobo sauce; reserve sauce and remaining chilies for another use)
  • 1 tablespoon (packed) dark brown sugar
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt

AND THEN WHAT YOU DO………

·        In large bowl, combine tomatoes, bread, chocolate, sesame seeds, cinnamon, coriander seeds, black pepper, and cloves. Set aside.

·        In large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Working in about 5 batches and adding 1 tablespoon oil between each batch, fry mulato, pasilla, and ancho chilies until beginning to blister and change colour, about 15 seconds per side (do not burn). Using tongs and shaking off excess oil, transfer chilies to large bowl. Add boiling water to cover and let soak until softened, about 45 minutes.

·        Meanwhile, in same skillet over moderately high heat, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Add almonds and sauté until golden, about 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate, reserving oil. Add raisins to oil in skillet and sauté until plump, about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towel–lined plate, again reserving oil. Add onion and garlic to skillet and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat.

·        Transfer onion, garlic, almonds, and raisins to bowl with tomato mixture. Add 1/2 cup stock. Transfer mixture to food processor and purée until smooth. Return to skillet and set aside.

·        When the chilies have softened, drain, pat dry, and transfer to food processor. Add chipotle and 1/2 cup stock and purée until smooth.

·        Transfer the chili mixture to skillet with tomato mixture. Stir in remaining 1 cup stock, brown sugar, and salt. Set over moderately high heat and bring to simmer, then reduce heat to moderately low and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. Let cool, then use to coat turkey or store in refrigerator up to 3 days.

TIME FOR A DRINK……..OR TWO!.........
Málaga began as a deep brown, rich, raisin wine, from a recipe and method created by the Greeks in 600 BC. It found its way to the Andalucia region of Spain - the same region that Sherry originated in ­- around the 1100s. It was originally called Xarabal Malaguii, "Málaga syrup", and was very sweet.

In 44 AD, Columela wrote about the fine wines available in the Roman Province of Málaga. Its popularity grew. During the 1500s, something had to be done to wine to allow it to last the


Long ocean journeys. Brandy was added to allow the wine to last longer, and to be more resistant to temperature changes. This is why Málaga is termed a "fortified wine".

Spain now produces 5.8 million gallons of Málaga a year. Practically this whole region is dedicated to the creation of these fine wines.

Málaga is mostly made with the Pedro ximinez grape, along with some Muscat of Alexandria. Málaga must actually be aged in the city of Málaga to earn the name. Málaga is regulated by the Consejo Regulator.

There are 16 main types of Málaga. Common ones are:

  • Lagrima - very sweet, free run (i.e. not pressed)
  • Moscatel - sweet, aromatic, using the muscatel grapes only
  • Pedro Ximinez - sweet, using the Pedro ximinez grapes only
  • Solera - coming from a dated solera (see sherry for a description of solera)

These wines are very sweet and velvety, and differ slightly depending on the grape mixture used. Málaga wine is best served around at 20C.




A REALLY GOOD READ………..


As part of the job I read incessantly about the history of Morocco-Andalusia, its culture both ancient and modern and of course the roots and development of Islam. Inevitably it can be tedious reading and often heavily bias. Well researched historical novels can often make a pleasant and informed diversion, as long as they are like I said, well researched.

The every-ready Kindle had hidden in its well loaded depths …… I often forget what I have bought for a later read….. one such gem. The Cross and Crescent is a must for anyone interested in the history of Andalusia Spain. But it is so much more than that……… An outstanding read and, using the over-used cliché, one I couldn´t put down.

The Cross and Crescent is about the spiritual quest of two men, a Muslim and a Christian, caught in the collision of worlds, during the first major confrontation between Islam and Europe. But like I said there is so much more than that.

In the early 8th century, the Muslims conquer Spain and begin moving north, entering an alien world of dark forests, inhabited by Germanic people who the Muslims regard as barbarian infidels. A refined Arab noble, Ali, captures a beautiful Frankish girl and her escort, Christival, and brings them to the sun-drench splendour of Cordova [Cordoba]. Ali’s tortured love for the Christian girl and his growing respect for Christival challenges his belief in the supremacy of Islam and the righteousness of its Holy War.

Seven years later, Christival returns to his northern homeland, estranged from his wife and primitive people, who worship Jesus and sacred trees in the same breath, and regard the distant south as a world of heathen devils. Christival must wrestle with his Christian roots, his rich memories of Cordova, his forbidden love for a Muslim girl and his admiration for Ali.

In their journeys into strange lands, in their struggles to find wisdom, faith and love in a ruthless age, the lives and spirits of Ali and Christival converge – even as their competing civilizations move toward the Battle of Tours (732 AD), a bloody contest that will shape the future divisions between Islam and the West.

Cross and Crescent was an outstanding read and one that not only delivers a story of pace and depth but delivers an insight to those complicated and often miss-represented times. In fact as I closed the last page I started again at the beginning!

Written in the tradition of Shogun, Cold Mountain, The Killer Angels and As a Driven Leaf, this novel transports the reader back to a little-known and extraordinary period of history.

Available of course for the Kindle ……… Cross and Crescent by Michael Uhry Newman and if you do read it let me know what YOU thought!!!!