ANDALUSIA DETOUR NEWS AND BITS………

It would be fair to say that we didn´t expect very much and were not overly excited when we finally launched Andalusia Detours earlier this year. But we saw the potential……and boy is there ever such potential……. We didn´t under estimate….or perhaps we did a little…..the task ahead, how to convince the seasoned and well-travelled  motorhome visitor that there is so much more to Spain than the contrived, crowded and relatively expensive Costa´s.

Its mid-December and I have just returned from a semi business tour of a few campsites in Andalusia. Many of the sites along the coast are heaving; ok I understand fully the attraction of Christmas on the Costa offering like-minded companionship and the chance of much improved weather….although it would not be for me……but sitting in a bar on one site I was amazed to hear, time and again, that there was nowhere to go “inland” and no campsites.

OK, I will concede that there are few campsites but on my trip the ones I visited were all but empty. Motorhomes moan about the lack of inland campsites, even though they have not looked….and the point is that nobody is going to invest in rural sites while the existing ones are underused…..

Anyway, back to the point. We thought long and hard about “doing our own thing” in Andalusia as we had been approached and pushed by a major club to research, recce and run motorhome tours in the region exclusively on their behalf. A tempting offer but no thanks and no hard feelings….although who knows, we may well do a few dates for them in the future.

So, Andalusia Detours launched itself onto the motorhome touring market with an ambitious 8 tour dates scheduled for 2013. As I write 3 dates are already FULL. The style remains as with all “Detours” tours ….. Off the tourist trail and expect the unexpected.  

We are strictly limiting these tour groups to just 9 vehicles….but we will book 10 vehicles allowing for the inevitable cancellations.

The Andalusia tours will have no impact on our long established Moroccan tours i.e.            [www.desertdetours.com ] as we are recruiting additional staff and sourcing extra escort vehicles.  In fact a number of clients are joining both our Moroccan and Andalusia tour on a back-to-back basis, not a bad idea given the historical and cultural links…..but also the attractive discount offered!!!!!

If you are interested in one of these outstanding tours check the website and-or send for an itinerary.

And remember, book before 1^st January 1013 and you will receive a FREE Wi-Fi Booster Antenna. …….. Thinking about it I must post a review on these great bits of kit.

MUCH MORE THAN JUST ROOTS………..…

This Blog is of course primarily about Andalusia Detours and Andalusia itself…….in fact it’s much more about Andalusia than us as a company. But perhaps I can take just a few lines to introduce you to our very own town-village….Alhaurin el Grande…..A locality well worth a visit in its own right, our transit base to Morocco for many years but now our permanent home and business location for the last 12 years.

I have but only one regret about leaving the UK to settle in Alhaurin el Grande…..It is in fact a long story and one I will not bore you with, suffice to say that Alhaurin was the location where we finally “drove the peg into the ground” and decided to stay after just two months on the road at the start of a World Road Trip……Yes, I said it was a long story. Where was I? Ah yes, just one regret. I regret that I didn´t move here 25 years ago!!!!

That´s not to say that I had a problem with living in the UK and jumped ship, far from it. Although the chilly and wet life in the UK was good and the business even better a career of endless travels meant that I never had the deeper feeling or contact with the UK that perhaps I should have had. Perhaps my originating from Saskatchewan, Canada had something to do with it. Who knows? But this piece is about Alhaurin, not me!! 

Alhaurin el Grande, from our office window.

Alhaurin el Grande is located on the north side of the spectacular Sierra de Mijas at a height of 326 meters above sea level [we are even higher] and enjoy a benign climate of mild winters and hot summers. Long and endless days of sunshine per year are the norm. We are just 29 km from Malaga and around 18 km from Marbella with Malaga Airport being just 18km away, all serviced by an excellent road network.

We, its inhabitants, are known as alhaurinos or laurinos. We are also lucky in having an indigenous and ancient population of Spanish Gypsies, known as Gitanos, who add a mostly colourful and cultural aspect to our town.  [The word "Gitano" comes from "Egipciano" that is the Spanish for "Egyptian". Like in the word” Gypsy", which come from "Egyptian", is due to a medieval belief that the Romani people came from Egypt].

With a population of around 25.000 Alhaurin el Grande is the thirteenth largest city in the entire province of Málaga, second only to the coastal municipalities, the cities of Ronda, Antequera and nearby Alhaurin de la Torre. There is a large presence of foreigners settled in the town, estimated to represent nearly 5% of the total population, with the minority of incomers being “Brits”. It also contains the neighbourhoods of Chorro or San. Anton, el Bajondillo, San Isidro, Camino de Coin, la Huerta, el Barrio del Alemán and la Fama…..Great names!

We are actually perched high above the town on Sierra La Mota overlooking Alhaurin with its Serria de Mijas backdrop. Our re-established finca occupies the ground of an ancient and bloody battle; with its associated “ghostly apparitions”….and there is another long story. Behind us rolls the stunning Natural Park of Sierra de las Nieves. We are indeed fortunate and never forget it!

In the town we can finds traces of ancient civilisations, abundant Roman and Moorish remains are clear with signs of an even earlier history marked by the evidence of Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and of course Arabs. Indeed it was the Moors who gave us our name, Alhaurín, meaning "Garden of Allah". Before then the Romans called us “Lauro Nova”. In the surrounding forests there are signs of Neolithic occupation, these traces were found at Las Huertas Altas and near La Casa Forestal.



A summer afternoon in Alhaurin

As with most everywhere else in Andalusia the earlier “golden age” became more than a little tarnished during the time of the Visigoths. Although the town was in no real danger of disappearing its development was exceedingly slow. It was not until the Moors took over and built a fortress on a hilltop called Torres de Fahala that it began to move again. The fort was partially wrecked in the destructive zeal of the Reconquista, but at least the village survived. In the following centuries the town suffered from invasions, epidemics of plague, and even an earthquake in 1680. During the Peninsular War of 1808-14 it was occupied for four years by French troops and suffered considerable bombardment.

As side note …… If you believe in fate and providence it is perhaps not altogether too strange that my aborted “World Road Trip” should have end at a location where I have so many interests and “emotional” connections.  My office overlooks the now restored Moors fortress.

If you are ever in the area call us and you may even get a pint or coffee! There is now a quite acceptable rural campsite,  www. Malagamontepark.com , just 5 km outside the town on the A404…….

JUST SOME ANDALUSIA BITS………

SO WHO ARE THE EX-PATS THEN………….

I was thinking, always dangerous and often pointless. I live in Spain…Andalusia…. And am considered an Ex-Pat…….By how and why I ask myself, ignoring the obvious?

In 711AD Spain was invaded by the Umayyid Moslems, or Moors, who overran the crumbling Visigothic kingdom of Roderick. The Moors originated in North Africa, i.e. Mauritania and Morocco but originally came from Arabia …..Ex-Pats…… and crossed the Straits of Gibraltar. OK, the bulk of their army was made up of the indigenous Berber stock.

In effect the Moors became ex-pats bringing their culture and customs with them.

Under the Emirate of Cordoba, the cities of southern Spain, Toledo, Cordoba, and Seville, speedily became centers of the new culture and were famed for their universities and architectural treasures like the Alhambra (made possible by the arch), luster glazing, delicate and lace-like wooden carvings, calligraphy, gold and silver smiting, the development of steel etc. etc. etc.

Not only were physical and ascetic changes introduced, but the Moors also introduced the social custom of chivalry, practiced across the Moslem world. Their impact was to last seven hundred years and was to have a significant part in leading medieval Europe out of the Dark Ages.

So, what have the modern day northern Europeans brought and contributed to Andalusia? Ehhhr, now let me think……. NOTHING!!!!!

At about the same time the Moors invaded Spain, the Vikings started raiding from Northern climes, which was to last for three hundred years. The Viking era culminated in the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, two weeks before the more famous Battle of Hastings. Less well known and acknowledged is where Vikings raided, Viking traders usually followed. Before my family launched off to the shores of the southern hemisphere's new world in the 1800’s, we can trace our roots back to the Dane law (or Danelagh) of North and East England and before that Denmark. It would seem that ex-pat living is in our blood.

In 1066 the Normans invaded England and won the throne implementing a Norman culture over a Viking-Anglo-Saxon culture. But where did the Normans come from?

In order to stop Viking raids in Northern France, the French King offered the Vikings tracts of land which have since become known as Normandy – home of the North or Norse men, in effect Viking ex-pats. It was these same North men, or Francophile-Vikings, that laid claim to the throne of England in 1066. In winning the throne of England a whole new range of Franco-Viking customs, laws and language was introduced to England. In order to supplant Anglo-Saxon culture with that of the Normans, the ruling class of Normandy almost decamped en masseto England effectively becoming ex-pats again.

And the rest, as they say, is history….But clearly I need to lie-down for a while, it must be something I ate   !!!!!

MANANA…………

This is absolutely true…so I am told.

Spanish singer Alejandro Sanz was on television with British TV host Anne Diamond when he used the word 'manana'. Diamond asked him to explain what it meant.

Alejandro said that the term means "maybe the job will be done tomorrow, maybe the next day, maybe the day after that. Or perhaps next week, next month, next year. Who cares?"

The host then turned to Irishman Shay Brennan who was also on the show and asked him if there was an equivalent term in Irish.

"No. In Ireland we don't have a word to describe that degree of urgency," replied Brennan.

I MUST REMEMBER, FLAMINGO IS A BIRD, FLAMENCO IS A DANCE……..

There are few things as emblematic of and as unique to Spain as flamenco. The distinct guitar, passionately sung songs, and the heart pounding, rapid and emotionally expressive dance amount to a national treasure of Spain. This style of dance began in Al-Andalus in the middle Ages when Muslim rule was in decline, but had existed for centuries. While the specific origins of flamenco are lost to history, it is clear that there are Arab influences, especially in the style performed in the Gypsy caves in Granada.

On a recent walk up to the gypsy caves in Sacromonte I got into a conversation with a local man, for unexplained reasons the conversation turned to flamenco. He explained to me that there was in fact a connection between the centuries of Muslim rule and flamenco and that many Spaniards were beginning to recognize it as well. This was of no surprising to me because I had always thought of flamenco as a sultry style of dance, although hardly a style associated with the stereotypical modesty required of Muslim women. I had always kept this in the back of my mind whenever watching a flamenco performance, although I am no real expert on the origins or style of dance, indeed any dance, I could definitely identify Muslim influences.

Intrigued enough that I returned to the Albaicin and did some research on the subject and found an article from Saudi Aramco World about the very connection that the man I met on the way to the gypsy caves was talking about. (A side note: Saudi Aramco World is a publication by one of the largest oil producers in the world, based in Saudi Arabia. The purpose of the magazine is to publicize the positive aspects and history of the Muslim world.) In the article titled “Exploring flamenco’s Arab roots” from the November/December 1994 issue it states “the Arab roots of flamenco run deep. Some scholars believe the word flamenco… is a corruption of the colloquial Arabic felag mangu, meaning “fugitive peasant” and derived from a root meaning “to flee.” The term came into use in the 14th century, and was first applied to the Andalusian Gypsies themselves, who were called either gitanos or flamencos.”

What I have found most interesting about this connection though is the fact that Spaniards are beginning to acknowledge and embrace their Arab roots as well. If they are willing to concede that one of their unique national treasures is derived from the period of Muslim rule, then perhaps they are open to the idea of re-connecting with people whom they share such a history with just across the Straits of Gibraltar. As it is many Americans inclination to resent the influx of immigrants from Latin America, it is also the inclination of many Spaniards to resent the influx of immigrants from the Muslim world. While I do not think for a second that the acknowledgment of flamenco’s roots will solve this resentment, it may just be one way to build a much-needed bridge between the cultures that share some common history.

A POEM…….

 Picaso...1906

I spotted this poem, not the picture, while looking for something else [Spanish Gypsy History] on the internet and liked it!

My Andalusian
Spanish Horse Boy
That Europe wants cast from places too wet and damp
that actual humans can't inhabit
I can teach you how to be more human
but your grass grains kept my Elders alive
and they covered for you when they ran into the night with their diamonds.

Your eyes are such dark pearls
Your mouth is as dark pink as a berry-freshly picked
Your face is gold shone blown from the air

My Andalusian
Horse Spanish Boy
My Pygmalion ways
would cause catastrophe: for you are pure art.
Yes, that I would live in your tree houses
Yes, that I would play guitar with one string
And learn all your dances
and leave my best dresses behind.

But Roma, Roma, Roma!
You have no home state, no country to make demands from
And they are not impressed with flamenco music
or the special way your women wash their hair with flowers.
Europe pretends to be strong against every gypsy who has broken horses.

I would walk down that road with you
I would walk right in the middle
to be with my Spanish Boy Horse
to show him we are all galaxies and roads are paved with pastness.
I would walk down that main road for you.
But you have no diamond for me.
Still, I would love you from afar
My Andalusian
Spanish Boy.

By Eli Spivakovsky

LET’S DO A PROVINCE…………

Now and then I may post a brief overview on one of the Andalusia provinces’. So, where should we start? Jaen is as good as any…….and it’s an area we feature in one of our tours.

 Even the olive groves look spectacular in Jaen

It is impossible to mention Jaen without in the same sentence mentioning olive oil. It is the largest single producer of olive oil in Spain and the world. After years of wholesale to other European countries for repackaging and rebranding, Jaén is finally now recognising and communicating the exceptional qualities of its fine olive oils.

Taken from the Arabic word meaning ‘crossroads of caravans’, Jaén was not always a sleepy, rural province in Spain; it was a strategic location for both the Romans and the Arabs. It is thought that the Romans introduced the olive trees to Spain and as a testament to the important role olives and their ‘liquid gold’ play in Andalusian culture, the typical scene of rows of green olive trees against the local white chalky soil is regarded as the inspiration for Andalucía’s flag.

Even before the immense contribution of olive oil, Jaén had a booming pottery and crafts industry which combined with geopolitical factors meant wealthy nobility invested heavily here.

The province boasts two of Spain’s most remarkable renaissance towns, Úbeda and Baeza. Thanks to the relative lack of economic development over the last half of the twentieth century, these two towns have remained almost untouched; a living museum of some of the finest palaces, churches and public buildings. Now these towns are a huge source of cultural tourism to the area, with visitors drawn by the unprecedented, preserved architecture, beautiful countryside and exceptional cuisine.

Jaen Cathedral

Úbeda was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003 and is centred on the imposing Vázquez de Molina Square, surrounded by ornate, golden sandstone buildings. This is a town to explore at a mellow pace, as at every turn there is a site to relish.

Neighbouring Baeza was also recognised by UNESCO is 2003. It is a smaller town, but no less impressive with many of Spain’s best examples of Italian Renaissance architecture. Elegant squares, intricate fountains and palatial homes define Baeza. The original university, now part of the University of Granada, and the cathedral are amongst the highlights of this exquisite town.

Both cater for the sophisticated traveller, with boutique hotels, upscale tapas bars and swanky restaurants. These are islands of culture amongst a sea of olive groves.

Jaén capital was bombed by the Nazis in 1937 and much of the modern development is without note but at the heart of the city is its Cathedral, probably one of the most important renaissance cathedrals in Europe. To enjoy the very best view of the city, climb to the top of the Santa Catalina hill in the town. At the very top is an ancient fortress dating back to the ninth century Moors. It is now a Parador Hotel and offers the most privileged vantage point from which to enjoy the city.

It is the province’s natural beauty though which probably leaves the most lasting memory. Jaén is lucky enough to have some of Spain’s most spectacular natural parks, including the exceptional ‘Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas’ Natural Park. This is Spain’s largest protected area, covering more than 200,000 hectares and is a testament to the unique biodiversity of Andalucía.

Eagles and vultures fly overhead, whilst the rivers and lakes teem with life; and the forests of pine and oak are a popular hunting ground for Iberian game. The scale and drama of Cazorla is immense, without comparison in Europe. The park is popular with those enjoying not only tranquillity and relaxation but also adventure sports and mountain activities, catered for by a range of boutique and rustic accommodation.

Like I said we feature parts of the Jaen province in one of our tours……all be it a more off-the-tourist trail.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT OVER TURKEY BITS………….

Left-over turkey, even dry, overcooked, scrappy bits are good in soups, salads, sandwiches, stews, smothered in sauce or topped with a poached or fried egg. But here is a local bar favourite alternative I enjoy…… I am not sure how “Andalusia” it is, but it’s were I had it so it is as far as I am concerned……Actually I think it is of Mexican origin…. But hey-hoe, it beats Curried Turkey hands down!

THE STUFF YOU NEED…….Of course you can improvise ……

• 1 (15-ounce) can chopped tomatoes, drained
• 1 small, firm white roll, toasted and torn into small pieces
• 3 ounces Mexican chocolate (such as Ibarra), chopped
• 1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds, toasted
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
• About 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 16 dried mulato chilies, stemmed, seeded, and deveined (about 8 ounces)
• 6 pasilla chilies, stemmed, seeded, and deveined (about 2 ounces)
• 4 ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded, and deveined (about 3 ounces)
• 1/2 cup whole almonds
• 1/2 cup raisins
• 1 small onion, roughly chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, sliced
• 2 cups Quick Turkey Stock
• 1 chipotle Chile (canned, from 1 can chipotle chilies in adobo sauce; reserve sauce and remaining chilies for another use)
• 1 tablespoon (packed) dark brown sugar
• 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt

AND THEN WHAT YOU DO………

·        In large bowl, combine tomatoes, bread, chocolate, sesame seeds, cinnamon, coriander seeds, black pepper, and cloves. Set aside.

·        In large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Working in about 5 batches and adding 1 tablespoon oil between each batch, fry mulato, pasilla, and ancho chilies until beginning to blister and change colour, about 15 seconds per side (do not burn). Using tongs and shaking off excess oil, transfer chilies to large bowl. Add boiling water to cover and let soak until softened, about 45 minutes.

·        Meanwhile, in same skillet over moderately high heat, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Add almonds and sauté until golden, about 4 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate, reserving oil. Add raisins to oil in skillet and sauté until plump, about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towel–lined plate, again reserving oil. Add onion and garlic to skillet and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat.

·        Transfer onion, garlic, almonds, and raisins to bowl with tomato mixture. Add 1/2 cup stock. Transfer mixture to food processor and purée until smooth. Return to skillet and set aside.

·        When the chilies have softened, drain, pat dry, and transfer to food processor. Add chipotle and 1/2 cup stock and purée until smooth.

·        Transfer the chili mixture to skillet with tomato mixture. Stir in remaining 1 cup stock, brown sugar, and salt. Set over moderately high heat and bring to simmer, then reduce heat to moderately low and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. Let cool, then use to coat turkey or store in refrigerator up to 3 days.

TIME FOR A DRINK……..OR TWO!......... Málaga began as a deep brown, rich, raisin wine, from a recipe and method created by the Greeks in 600 BC. It found its way to the Andalucia region of Spain - the same region that Sherry originated in ­- around the 1100s. It was originally called Xarabal Malaguii, "Málaga syrup", and was very sweet.

In 44 AD, Columela wrote about the fine wines available in the Roman Province of Málaga. Its popularity grew. During the 1500s, something had to be done to wine to allow it to last the

Long ocean journeys. Brandy was added to allow the wine to last longer, and to be more resistant to temperature changes. This is why Málaga is termed a "fortified wine".

Spain now produces 5.8 million gallons of Málaga a year. Practically this whole region is dedicated to the creation of these fine wines.

Málaga is mostly made with the Pedro ximinez grape, along with some Muscat of Alexandria. Málaga must actually be aged in the city of Málaga to earn the name. Málaga is regulated by the Consejo Regulator.

There are 16 main types of Málaga. Common ones are:

• Lagrima - very sweet, free run (i.e. not pressed)
• Moscatel - sweet, aromatic, using the muscatel grapes only
• Pedro Ximinez - sweet, using the Pedro ximinez grapes only
• Solera - coming from a dated solera (see sherry for a description of solera)

These wines are very sweet and velvety, and differ slightly depending on the grape mixture used. Málaga wine is best served around at 20C.

A REALLY GOOD READ………..

As part of the job I read incessantly about the history of Morocco-Andalusia, its culture both ancient and modern and of course the roots and development of Islam. Inevitably it can be tedious reading and often heavily bias. Well researched historical novels can often make a pleasant and informed diversion, as long as they are like I said, well researched.

The every-ready Kindle had hidden in its well loaded depths …… I often forget what I have bought for a later read….. one such gem. The Cross and Crescent is a must for anyone interested in the history of Andalusia Spain. But it is so much more than that……… An outstanding read and, using the over-used cliché, one I couldn´t put down.

The Cross and Crescent is about the spiritual quest of two men, a Muslim and a Christian, caught in the collision of worlds, during the first major confrontation between Islam and Europe. But like I said there is so much more than that.

In the early 8th century, the Muslims conquer Spain and begin moving north, entering an alien world of dark forests, inhabited by Germanic people who the Muslims regard as barbarian infidels. A refined Arab noble, Ali, captures a beautiful Frankish girl and her escort, Christival, and brings them to the sun-drench splendour of Cordova [Cordoba]. Ali’s tortured love for the Christian girl and his growing respect for Christival challenges his belief in the supremacy of Islam and the righteousness of its Holy War.

Seven years later, Christival returns to his northern homeland, estranged from his wife and primitive people, who worship Jesus and sacred trees in the same breath, and regard the distant south as a world of heathen devils. Christival must wrestle with his Christian roots, his rich memories of Cordova, his forbidden love for a Muslim girl and his admiration for Ali.

In their journeys into strange lands, in their struggles to find wisdom, faith and love in a ruthless age, the lives and spirits of Ali and Christival converge – even as their competing civilizations move toward the Battle of Tours (732 AD), a bloody contest that will shape the future divisions between Islam and the West.

Cross and Crescent was an outstanding read and one that not only delivers a story of pace and depth but delivers an insight to those complicated and often miss-represented times. In fact as I closed the last page I started again at the beginning!

Written in the tradition of Shogun, Cold Mountain, The Killer Angels and As a Driven Leaf, this novel transports the reader back to a little-known and extraordinary period of history.

Available of course for the Kindle ……… Cross and Crescent by Michael Uhry Newman and if you do read it let me know what YOU thought!!!!

Andalusia 2013.

Andalusia 2013....... Predictably, with our www.andalusiadetours.com site now live and fully operational, ads running on both Motohomefacts and in MMM, plus our last News Letter things have really taken off.

All the early 2013 tours are now FULL leaving just places on the late spring, with the summer... that’s June, July and August....and autumn offering limited availability. We add additional tour dates during September, October and November.

Remember that our Andalusia Tours are NOT the regular so called Spanish “Highlights”. We do NOT visit the coastal region, many of you have and will continue to do that, or tour the “Big Three” [Granada, Cordoba, Seville] again we think that you can easily visit them yourself should you so wish. Rather, much like our Moroccan Tours, we aim to introduce you to the forgotten and often hidden region via back-roads and unique locations. And remember all our tour staff, as well as ourselves, are based and LIVE in Andalusia.

Our offer of a FREE Wi-Fi booster antenna for all Andalusia tours booked before 1st Jan 2013 still stands.......

AND NOW THE ANDALUSIAN BITS

THESE BOOTS WERE MADE FOR WALKING..................

I stole this piece and photo from a friend’s blog as it covers one of our Andalusia tour route/days/walks and mentions one of our guides, Eva Monika Bratek............

Steep craggy rocks stood at each side of the dramatic gorge, typical of the limestone landscape of this eastern edge of the Grazalema protected Natural Park.  Echoing through the wide, sunlit pass was the call of raptors in the sky above. Looking up, Griffon Vultures soared and circled overhead, exploiting thermals to swiftly cover the kind of distances, with barely a flap of their wings that had taken us some hours to walk since breakfast.

 It’s an extraordinary experience to be in such a dramatic landscape surrounded by nature; the feeling of freedom that these stunning spaces evoke is liberating. Despite being in such unfamiliar territory, we were in safe hands, as we’d opted to use a qualified and insured walking guide, Eva Monika Bratek, to take us through these staggering mountains North West of Ronda. Eva knows the sierra better than most, and as a qualified ornithologist, her knowledge of the flora and fauna really brings the landscape alive.

We were some four hours into our hike when Eva identified the vultures’ nesting site and the source of the unusual sounds filling the canyon. The high specification scope that she’d been carrying over her shoulder was swiftly set up on its tripod and within moments we were viewing in startling clarity these enormous birds on their stony, inaccessible ledge some 30 metres above. Immense adult birds were regularly touching down and taking off from their craggy cliff face home, whilst some juveniles looked out across the horizon.

The park has a surprising array of raptors, including four types of eagle. In just a few hours we had spotted the short-toed eagle, booted and also a Bonelli eagle, distinctive by its command of the sky with swift and agile movements. To be honest though I don’t think, without the guide’s insightful knowledge, we would have been able to distinguish so effectively between the different birds of prey. At a time when so many large birds are rare or endangered it is a real privilege to see them in such stunning habitat.

 Close by on an equally precipitous ledge with commanding views, was a female Ibex, with her calf. Relaxing in the autumn sunlight they were sheltered by huge boulders. Although the mother appeared docile in this safe location, this species of mountain goat, still relatively common in the Grazalema natural park, is highly alert and super agile. They are able to swiftly escape predators along steep, stony and precipitous routes. 

Our morning had started early. We met in the modest market square of Montejaque, already busy with market traders and villagers at eight thirty in the morning. A strong coffee gave me the kick start I needed and we were soon heading off to the ‘Cueva de la Pileta’. This protected cave is still privately owned, and worth exploring. There are Palaeolithic drawings and paintings to discover; prehistoric art in charcoal, as well as red and yellow ochre. This is no theme park experience – it is practically untouched, so decent footwear is essential to negotiate the slippery cave floor as you walk through low narrow arches equipped with a vintage gas lamp provided by the owners.

The first autumn rains reignite colour in the landscape, with a mass of seeds and bulbs bursting into life that have lain dormant for months. In spring time the colours are even more vibrant, punctuated with some thirty species of orchid that can be found in the Grazalema Park.

Off season hikes are a wonderful way to welcome the cooler, more comfortable temperatures. All that exercise needs to be rewarded and few things feel as good as a satisfying meal after a day’s walking. Often hiking in Spain’s natural parks means nothing more than a straight forward meal in a simple B&B; but not when you hiking in the Ronda Mountains. Hidden in a river valley in the sleepy village of Benaojan is the Molino Del Santo Hotel.

Molino Del Santo has been one of Andalucía’s best kept secrets for years. British couple Andy and Pauline Chapell converted this ancient mill on the banks of a mountain stream 25 years ago and have been offering friendly hospitality ever since. The rooms have very comfortable beds, an important consideration for any walker, and feature thoughtful touches such as tea and coffee making facilities that go down well with guests. 

The period salon with its original mill wheel is a great place to put your feet up and enjoy some of the hotel’s walking and nature books; whilst front desk has details of a number of self-guided and guided walks available for guests. 

The country hotel offers the opportunity to enjoy the nature on its doorstep and then return to indulge in local and regional dishes made from seasonal ingredients. 

Over dinner we share good humoured banter with Victor our waiter, who is also an expert on local Ronda wines. Before long, much of the health benefits of our hike are being somewhat eroded by another bottle of desert wine that goes so well with the triple-chocolate desert! Breakfast, taken on the river terrace in dappled sunshine certainly is a great way to ease into the day with tired limbs from the walk and a thick head from the night before!  Whilst tucking into some buttery croissants a graceful eagle glides overhead, making me want to head out into the park all over again.

FIRE !!!!!!!!..........................

To relive the horror of another forest wildfire within a year of the last one is tough. But with the exceptional heat, dry undergrowth and of course the inevitable idiot a repeat was perhaps inevitable............

This and by far the worst ever fire started near our village of Alhaurin el Grande, in a natural park area just a stone’s throw from where we live. This once stunning natural area, that supported so much wildlife, is now just ash. 

Arsonists typically strike on hot windy days, in the evening - knowing hot Terrell winds with make the fires uncontrollable and nightfall means planes and helicopters cannot operate.

The fire took hold and ragged across the sierra, then “jumped” a few kilometres to La Mairena, where two fires now joined, it was clear to all those that watched the flames on Thursday night that La Mairena was a second example of arson in Southern Spain.

At one time we counted over 30 aircraft flying overhead, fighting the blaze.......Two water bombers form Morocco even joined our own stretched teams

 After the evacuation, those who were permitted returned home .... did I say home? Some 200 families we were greeted by total devastation.

SCENES FROM OUR TERRACE

Again I have lifted this piece from a friend’s blog........... “Together with neighbours we spent the morning dousing flames and smouldering trees and garden fixtures with hoses and buckets of water from the ash filled swimming pool. Everything on and around the property is gone; cremated. A huge solid teak Balinese daybed is just fine ash. Terrace furniture incinerated; it's steel frame molten into globules that are fused into the broken terrace tile. Even glass has been melted. The window frames are twisted, security blinds buckled. The huge flames went over the house, even burning plants and furniture on the roof terrace.

So we spent the day clearing up debris; on autopilot, not really taking in the true reality of it. The fire service was clearly overwhelmed, so there was no fire fighters in our area throughout the inferno; no one to protect our homes. Neighbours even lost their cars; and a house less those 500 metres away is totally burnt out. I just hope that this time the local authorities do something to help. Since the last fire none of the money raised made it to people affected or was used to reforest the affected land. It was a fire quickly and conveniently forgotten by those not affected. But this time, since the fire has reached suburban areas it's made national and international news and local foreign residents who have not been affected are engaged; although as always it seems that stray dogs seem to top the list of twitter and face book posts, not the destruction of habitat for thousands of wild animals. 

Well, since this year the fire has become a ‘cause célèbre’ by the charity junkies on the coast, let's hope this year something is actually done to help those affected and the environment destroyed”.........

A little bitter, but I do understand.

STRANGE WAY TO BUY CAKES................

We had only driven an hour or so after a fabulous 3 night stopover at Metila’s Campsite, south of Cordoba, but this town was just too nice to just pass by.........

The parking attendant greeted us with a warm smile, as we got out of the support vehicle and we certainly weren’t expecting the smile and friendly welcome from someone paid to give out parking tickets. But we’re in small town Andalucía, and here people are especially friendly. We paid our 60 cents parking and took the attendant’s advice and headed up into the old quarter, offering wonderful views across the town and the Seville countryside.

We’re in Osuna, the renaissance gem hidden in the south east of Seville Province.  It was once a centre of great wealth and sophistication during the era of Spanish Royal Dukes, when this was just a village and was part of the Kingdom of Seville.

It is home to some magnificent ecclesiastical buildings as well as a stunning university (where the columns of the university courtyard sport graffiti and scratched names from across the centuries) and ancient monasteries.

We had heard about a strange practice “enjoyed by those in the know” so headed off with those of the group who had stopped with us. We were visiting one of the nunneries to buy some homemade cakes, but with a difference. Here you ring the bell, suspended on a long chain and call your order through a rotating door.......As it happens it is actually  a quaint custom that still remains in much of Andalucía.

 It’s a fascinating place and close to the motorway, so makes for a good place to take a break on the Malaga to Seville route.

All Saints Day - Yunquera and El Burgo, Sierra de las Nieves………….

Today was Dia de Todos Los Santos; All Saints Day here is Spain.......More commonly known as “The Day of the Dead”.

 Traditionally this is when everyone goes to the cemetery to remember loved ones. The headstones of the niches (the little ‘slots’ where coffins are placed) are cleaned and fresh flowers are placed, together with candles. It’s a family affair, very sociable. Afterwards many people go to a local restaurant to eat together.

There’s an old phrase in Spanish, ‘El muerto al hoyo y el vivo al bollo’……. when someone in interned. It basically means the deceased in their niche and the living to the bar to celebrate their life’.  I think the Spanish have a fascinating and really quite healthy relationship with the notion of death.

 Although Halloween and All Saints is becoming more commercialised, in the small villages the traditional ways to celebrate and recognise these dates are still evident and very much an event.

After breakfast in a local bar and visit to the cemetery.......thankfully we do not know any of the residents......... we headed to one of my favourite hikes.......well, sometimes I run this route on my quad bike!...... the route to Los Sauces, near El Burgo. 

We were the only one up there and it was quite stunning. The river was alive with clear fresh water after the recent rains, so different to when I was last there in high summer.

There is a possibility that we will include this walk on one of our tours.........but there are so many to choose from that we are spoilt.

Back to our village and we were quite surprised to see how busy the cafes and restaurants were........Spain is supposed to be in the depths of a recession, but then that’s Spain........live for today, tomorrow will take care of itself!!

FIRSTLY JUST A FEW ANDALUSIA DETOUR BITS

Firstly, a welcome to this our first Andalusia Detours News letter, quite separate from the regular Desert Detours News Letter.

We plan to continue with our established format of offering just a short piece about ourselves whilst concentrating on what this wonderful region of Spain has to offer.

Being familiar with the region, passing through to North Africa and living here for many years, it was always our intension to offer Andalusia as an escorted motor home touring destination. The hugely successful Moroccan side of the business, as well as other projects, sadly deferred the launch.

Having said that the bonus and advantage has been that we ourselves have, in the fullness of time, re-discovered this “Real Spain” and established many contacts and connections and can’t wait to pass them on.

The initial response to our measured announcement of Andalusia Detours has taken us by surprise, already several of the listed tour dates are FULL with a couple of others offering just a few remaining vehicle places. The “Detours” format remains in offering a more rural and byway routing with the unusual and informal camping locations mixed with more than one or two surprises. Tour groups are being strictly limited to 10 vehicle maximum.

High Sierras, woodland and near water locations mean that the lofty summer temperatures should be more moderate during the more traditional holiday dates while during late Spring and Autumn evenings a fleece may be welcome.

A couple of clients are combining both Morocco and Andalusia destinations and attracting a nice discount! Plus, those booking an Andalusia tour by 1st Jan 2013 will receive a Wi-Fi Boost Antenna for FREE. For your convenience I have included a copy of our “Soul of Andalusia” itinerary.

Best regards and safe travels

Debbie

NOW JUST SOME ANDALUSIA BITS

STALLIONS AND STARS........

We finally managed to drag ourselves away from yet another “fiesta”. This one, a private affair, was hosted by a horse breeder based on a sizable farm a little south of Cordoba. Income from a considerable olive oil production business has enabled the family to indulge in their real passion....... Andalusia Stallions ........ I counted 21 of these magnificent creatures in the old and atmospheric stable area and later watched an impromptu yet dazzling riding display in the arena ......... perhaps more about that interesting place in a future issue of this “News Letter”.

On our way back home to Alhaurin, in the very early hours, we found ourselves unintentionally driving through the normally deserted Sierra de Chimenea; we had got slightly lost in the darkness. But what were these other people doing here at this time of night, in the middle of nowhere...heading for the towering rock formations?

Star Gazing it turned out.....................

Not

Not a client getting in the way of a great shot. It’s a rock formation!

Following a couple of other vehicles we joined the small convoy heading into the mountains, parked and joined a sizable but hushed crowd.

The astrologer Francisco, had gathered the faithful for one of his regular “Star Nights”, and this time they were in for something special. PERSEIDS............It seems that around this time [August] every year this meteor shower, from the comet Swift-Tuttle, can in the right place and with clear skies be clearly seen...and we did. At times the sky seemed to be full of streams of fire! An absolutely brilliant display....... So, why mention it here?

Take a look at the attached and you will see that we have added this stunning location to our “Soul of Andalusia” tour. Only during the August date will you catch the Perseids, but during our night camp here Francisco and his equipment will attend. And we have also added a visit to the “Stallion Farm” to our tours.

SMURF VILLAGE.........

Yes, you read it right.........SMURF VILLAGE!!

Situated near Ronda Júzcar used to be a typical, sleepy, traditional White Village.....but all that has now changed. Last summer it was chosen by Sony Pictures as the setting for the premiere of their new film “The Smurfs 3D". To gain maximum publicity the “experts” at Sony come up with an innovative idea.......let’s paint

the whole village blue!

So, during the ‘11 summer a team of 20 painters were hard at work splashing over 40,000 litres of the blue Smurf stuff on anything that didn’t move, painting all of Júzcar's 175 buildings’ including the church and gravestones.

MMmmmmm, not sure really.......maybe pink would be better!

After the promotion the plan was for Sony to repaint the whole of Júzcar white again but villagers voted to leave everything as it now was......Smurf Blue. The fact was that all the media exposure had a very positive effect on the village’s coffers as tourists now come to take pictures of the famous Smurf Village. Previously, only about 300 tourists a year would pass through Júzcar but in the past six months an estimated 80,000 travellers have visited the village of "Los Pitufos", as the Smurfs are known in Spanish........Business is booming and all the 221 villagers are well happy.

The village even organizes special events such as Smurf painting competitions, a Smurf moonlight fun run, and Smurf trade fairs. There are even Smurf-themed weddings to keep tourists coming....but we will have to wait and see how long the novelty lasts.

But why did Sony choose this small settlement in the Andalusia hills for their world premiere? It seems that Júzcar is popular among mycologists and as we all know, the Smurfs are known to love mushrooms. Fungi flourish in large quantities each autumn in dense local woodland and in September Júzcar celebrated its fifth annual mycology congress.

Anyway, hopefully it will be there long enough for us to take a brief look as we pass by while on one of our Andalusia tours.

There is one good point.........Andalusia now has its very own Chefchaune!

ANDALUSIAN PORK BBQ............

One of the delights of rural Andalusia is the seemingly endless dishes on offer, from the simplest of farmhouse dishes, long forgotten shepherd and “hill-side” snacks to the very highest of specialist dishes. Often easy is best..............The BBQ.

By the way.......Modern-day barbecue is riddled in history and culture. While the Spanish introduced the term barbacoa to Europe after discovering the technique during Columbian exploration in the Caribbean, the method of cooking meat over fire or indirect heat is as old as cavemen. Barbacoa, which ended up being synonymous with traditional Mexican barbecue, derived itself from the term barabicu which the Taino people of the Caribbean used prior to Spanish conquest of the New World -- or so one story says. Many other folktales exist about the history of the term barbecue. According to one tale, French visitors of the Caribbean described the process of cooking a whole pig as “barbe à queue”, which translates to "from beard to tail." Regardless of stories passed down through generations, barbecue is undoubtedly one of the most popular cooking methods used in Spain and one that varies from region to region with the people who cook it.

Expect some great recipes and methods in future issues of Andalusia Detours News Letter.

We have some great things planned for our Andalusian Detours menus while on tour.......Hunters Wild Boar, Olive ‘n’ Salmon, Marias Gazpacho, Pandora Paella etc. But in the meantime why not try this simple but delicious dish.........perfect for the BBQ!!

Still Smiling?

INGREDIENTS

2 tbsp paprika

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tsp dried thyme

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 tbsp coarse sea salt

2 tbsp olive oil

500 g pork fillets, trimmed [or any pork will do!]

2 lemons cut into wedges, to serve

METHOD

1. Mix the paprika, oregano, garlic and salt with the olive oil to make a thick paste.

2. Spread the paste evenly over the pork, cover and marinate in the fridge, ideally overnight.

3. Cut the meat into slices on the diagonal.

4. Heat a griddle, large heavy frying pan or BBQ until very hot. Cook the pork for 3-4 minutes on each side until cooked through.

5. Serve at once with the lemon wedges.

GYPSY...........SPANISH STYLE..........

My hometown-village here in Spain, Alhaurin El Grande, has a fairly small gypsy community, mostly living in “their own” area on the fringe. Although never accepted by the local “Gitanos”, that would be expecting too much, I have over the years observed and learnt a lot……..and very little of it bad! But then I have always been fascinated by gypsies, perhaps even thinking of myself as one at heart, having always lived in a footloose way…....constantly travelling…....independent.....a touch rebellious even!!

The history of their travels is, as I have learnt, even more fantastic in many ways than that of the Jews and Muslims, although being unwritten, and much more obscure.

It´s now generally accepted that the gypsies originated in the Punjab in north-west India, fleeing from the region during the clashes between invading Arab and Mongolian warriors, around a thousand years ago. On their long odyssey, they travelled through, and settled in, the countries of the Middle East, including Persia and Egypt.

Those who moved on from Egypt cultivated the legend that they were descendants of the Pharaohs, a belief to which many of their songs still refer. They also settled in Turkey, then known as Egypt Minor, and it was either their association with Egypt itself or this "other" Egypt that they became known as “Gypcians”. In old Spanish, in any case, “Gitano” was simply a way of saying Egyptian... Those who had been in Greece were, in like manner, called “Graecians”. But in fact, because they had no writing, they had forgotten where they really came from.

From A Past Not So Distant

They reached Spain in the early 15th century and quickly spread all over the country. Although they were not expelled along with the Moors and Jews during the 16th century, partly because they represented no threat to the supremacy of reunified, Christian Spain, but also because it was simply too difficult to physically get hold of them all. They were eventually forced to give up their Romaní language (now identified by linguists as a simplified version of Sanskrit), as well as their nomadic ways. Today's Spanish gypsies speak to one another in Castilian Spanish and live in wheel-less homes.

They made their living as tinkers (smithies or pot-makers), re-weaving the backs and seats of old chairs, as wandering musicians, fortune-tellers and, let’s be honest, by begging and stealing. This earned them a bad reputation which, sadly, has not disappeared over the course of time, even though most modern gypsies - at least, most of the ones I know in Alhaurin - are essentially honest, hard-working people.

In fact, the gypsies were so feared that until the end of the 18th century they were forced to live several miles from the nearest town. In Montefrio, the place where they once built their huts is still known as "The Cliffs of the Gypsies" ….. ” Peñas de los Gitanos”

Peñas de los Gitanos

As mentioned earlier the gypsies of Alhaurin el Grande are no longer forced to live in huts miles from the town, almost all of them today have their modest homes in the high, all be it less accessible barrios……..Keeping relations with the “payos” or non-gypsies peaceful and very reserved.

The fact is there are very few gypsies in present day Spain, only about half a million, or 1% of the population ……which means that they have very little political clout and virtually no economic importance. Also, they were not deliberately imported to perform an indispensable and status-giving economic activity as were the slaves …… rather, they wandered in from France or sailed over from North Africa, mixed up with Berber tribesmen, and simply got lost in the great ethnic shuffle of medieval Spain, becoming an uninvited and unwanted lumping. As Franco put it, España es grande - there tends to be room for everyone.

This is why, until today, the gypsies have never taken part in the mainstream of Spanish life, literally living in a world of their own. In Alhaurin, for example, despite their significant numbers and permanent presence no gypsy has ever held an official job in local government.

But…having said all that the “Gitanos” have contributed significantly to Spanish history and culture…….

Perhaps more about that in a future Andalusia News Letter……

A SPANISH JOKE.........

A British tourist goes into a restaurant in Spain and orders the specialty of the house.

When his dinner arrives, he asks the waiter what it is. "These, senor," replied the waiter in broken English, "are the ears of the bull killed in the ring today." The tourist swallowed hard but tasted the dish and thought it was delicious.

So he comes back the next evening and orders the same item.

When it is served, he says to the waiter, "These ears... are much smaller than the ones I had last night, and taste different."

"Yes, senor," replied the waiter, "You see...the bull, he does not always lose”.

FLAMENCO ...........

The origins of Flamenco are often a subject of debate because it has only been documented for the past two

centuries.

The word “Flamenco” did not come into use until the 18th century. Much of its history before this time comes from family stories passed down through the years, as are the Flamenco songs themselves. One certainty about Flamenco is that it originated in Andalusia. From the 8th to the 15th centuries, when Spain was under Arab rule, the Moors’ music and musical instruments were modified and adapted by Spanish Christians and Jews, and later by gypsies, becoming in time a new, hybrid musical form..............

But let’s wait ‘till a future issue of our Andalusia News Letter. Flamenco has such a fascinating and dark history it deserves more time than I have at the moment..............

A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE.................

A couple of months ago, whilst walking along the Rio Grande on a Recce for one of the Andalusia tours, we

discovered an abandoned turn of the century hydro electric power station.

Beautifully abandoned

It was fascinating, as we followed the original water channels that fed the power station from the abundance of water from the Rio Grande. These channels, a century on are still full of crystal clear mountain water.

About a kilometre from the original station is newer one, dating back to 1932. It’s still operational, and what’s extraordinary is that, through the windows you can still see inside the original turbines, from the then pioneering German engineering firm ‘J. M. Voith’ based in Heidenheim.

Even more incredible was that the original tool kits are still mounted on the walls.

Locked in time

Outside remnants of the old sluice gates and channels remain, but are no longer used as water is brought down from the mountains in huge modern pipes.

Amazing what you find in the many sierras of Andalusia................

AND THE DIFFERENCE IS......................AND IS.......................

To save those who “Know” from writing in to tell us.........we do know the difference between “Andalusia” and “Andalucia”. Both spellings are in fact correct:

Andalucía is Spanish. It is pronounced "And-a-loo-see-a" by most whom live in the south (i.e. in Andalusia) and "And-a-loo-thee-a" by most that live in central and northern Spain.

Andalusia is English. It is pronounced "And-a-loo-see-a".

When speaking in English, it should always be written 'Andalusia' and should never be lisped.

ANDALUSIA, JUST WAITING

TO BE DISCOVERED